Over the 40 plus years we have inhabited our little slice of paradise, we have occasionally had the need for medical care. I suppose the first time we went to the village doctor was when our daughter was about 2 years old. She had broken out in hives, which was subsequently diagnosed as an allergy to septra medicine, which she was taking for a cold.
When visiting your village doctor back then, you simply arrived early and sat in the waiting room until it was your turn to be called into his office. It was a first-come, first-served system. I remember that the doctor was very kind, and he spoke only French. He looked at our very blond, fair-skinned daughter and said she would be having many allergies in her life. I poohed-poohed the idea, thinking he was just basing his opinion on the fairness of her skin, compared to most of the French children, with their olive complexions, in our village. However, he was certainly correct!
I had occasion to visit him again shortly afterwards when I, unfortunately, had a miscarriage (une fausse-couche). My best friend went with me that time and helped me make an appointment with a gynecologist in Perpignan for a thorough examination.
My husband often got a build-up of wax in his ears, particularly after an overseas flight. One year we were with our friends in Cerbere and we mentioned that he was having trouble with his ear. Our friend sent us right over to their village doctor. “He’s wonderful!” our friend said. “Our son has that problem frequently, and this doctor is fabulous at getting the wax out.” So we made our way over to the office on the next street and waited our turn to see the Cerbere doctor. This doctor was indeed very good at clearing wax from ears. He used the old fashioned method of a bowl of soapy water and a tube to pour it into the ear. In no time at all, the ear was cleared and my husband could once again hear. When a blockage occurred again several years later, we called our friends in Cerbere to ask about that wonderful doctor and found he had retired. So we tried the doctor in our village, but ended up with a couple of assistants, who really did not do a good job at all and spent a lot of time getting nowhere. So one never knows what one will get! In future years, we made sure to have his ears checked by his ENT in the US before flying.
About 10 years ago, my husband was diagnosed with a blood cancer (MDS). We knew that he would need to see a specialist while we were in France, as he was, at that time, getting blood tests every month, as well as injections. But in order to get to a specialist, we first had to have a referral from our village doctor. So we traipsed down to the village doctor and waited in his new waiting room until it was our turn to see him. When we got into the office, we found a woman at the desk; we never found out if this was another doctor or an assistant. She asked us lots of questions and said she would arrange an appointment for us up at the hospital in Perpignan. So we paid her the nominal fee (always about 20 euros) for the visit and went home to await her call.
Several days later, having not received any call from the doctor’s office about our impending appointment at the hospital, I called my French friend and she offered to call the doctor to find out what was going on. She found there was still no word. Several more days went by and my friend went off on vacation for a week. So I went back to the doctor’s office and talked with the receptionist. “Oh yes,” she said. “Your husband has an appointment at 2 p.m this afternoon.” “But why didn’t you call us to let us know?!” I asked. “Well, I called your friend and left a message,” she replied. “But you had our phone number, right here on your paper!” I replied. Of course, our friend, whom she had called, was on holiday for the week! So another wild dash back up the hill and into the car to get to our appointment with the specialist by 2 p.m.
The drive up to the hospital in Perpignan usually took us about 40 minutes if the traffic was light. Once there, we searched for a parking space in a large lot, and then had to walk quite a distance to get to the main entrance of the building. After a few trips, I learned to drop off my husband at the main entrance plaza, then go park the car, while he sat on a bench and waited for me. My best friend had given us her husband’s wheelchair and walker after his death, and these were also very helpful whenever we had an appointment in Perpignan. Our doctor was located in a suite of offices just off the main lobby and we quickly learned the routine of checking in at a particular window where they would check his passport and then hand him a sheet of little stickers with his name and date of birth on them. We were then to hand the stickers to our doctor, who would laugh and toss them aside saying we didn’t really need them—they were only for those with une carte vitale—a medical ID card that means the French government is paying for your care. Not having une carte vitale really threw bureaucrats off their pace. They looked at us as if we were aliens, and in a sense, we were. After our appointment, our doctor would walk us back out to the window of the central office and then we had to go through the scene of trying to pay for our appointment. Fees are regulated and are currently about $25 per visit, but paying out of pocket is such an odd occurrence that it always took an explanation from our doctor and from us to get the office to accept payment from us. Forget about trying to get change! One time our appointment ran later than 6 p.m., when the office closed, so there was no one to check us out. The doctor just laughed and said “I guess you don’t have to pay today!”
A few years later, the hospital changed the check-in system, so we had to go to a central area of the lobby and take a number, then wait on benches until our number was called. The first few times going through this process, they accepted my payment at the check-in desk, but then one day we got a woman who threw up her hands in despair of having to deal with a paying customer and said, “Just wait for the bill to come in the mail! I can’t take any money here.” So that worked out well, except for one year when we returned to the US before the last bill reached us in the mail. That bill sat in our mailbox until we returned the following year, and had incurred late fees and donning letters from the government! It was then that I discovered a way to pay the bills online. This worked until the year of the pandemic. Then we could not return to France for over two years. When we finally arrived, I found two very moldy bills in the letter box and found I could not check on the status of these statements online, I suppose because they were two years old!
This connection with the hematologist in Perpignan was the best thing to happen to us. The hematologist was so gentle and caring and willing to work with us and with our doctor in the US. He not only cared for my husband’s oncology needs, but also wrote him prescriptions for all his regular medications (whose total cost was much less in France than our co-pay in the US), and prescribed medications when my husband arrived one year with a terrible cold We developed such a good relationship with this doctor that I could email him with our arrival date and he would respond with a date for our first appointment and then mail my husband’s blood test orders and injection and other medication prescriptions directly to our apartment, so it was waiting for me when we arrived.
In France, there is not a nurse in the doctor offices, at least not where we are. Nurses have a separate office in the village. I think there are two or three such offices in our village. Our first year with the specialist, we learned that we had to purchase his injection syringe at the pharmacy and then take it to the nurses’ office to have it injected. For the blood tests, we would go down to the lab on the street below our apartment. There we sat until it was his turn to have blood drawn. We called that lady with the needle, “the vampire,” as she was quite brutal with her needle! Then I would return the next day to get the results (anywhere from 17 euros to 85 euros). If the results indicated he needed an injection, then I would purchase one at the pharmacy and take it and my husband to the nurses’ office to have it administered (another 5 euros).
However, we soon learned that we could have a nurse come directly to our apartment and draw his blood there. No need to go sit in the lab in a long line of other people. And, since the nurses in his US oncology office had taught me how to give him his injection, no need to go anywhere else to have that administered! So then we could have a favorite nurse all lined up for our arrival. She came every two weeks, drew his blood and took it to the lab.

The cost was just 8 euros and 60 cents, which I always tried to have in exact change (they refused to take a cent more). Then I just walked down to the lab the next day and picked up the results and paid the lab. Every month we drove up to the hospital for an appointment with the specialist. That became a smooth and easy system for us.
We then explored the possibility of getting a handicapped sticker/card for the car. We had gotten one for the US and that was quite easy–only two pages of information to supply and the card would be good for 5 years.
The French system, of course, was full of red tape and a 10-page form to be completed by us and by his doctor in Perpignan. After it was all mailed in, we were told that it might take 2 months for processing and then he might be called in for an interview. By the time all this had happened, we were back in the States! The following year, we arrived to find three letters from the handicap office waiting in our mailbox. They were so confusing that I had to have my best friend translate them for me. Apparently, they needed another photo of my husband, which I quickly sent to them. Eventually, we received the handicap card to be displayed on the front right windshield of our car. Since we have a different lease car every year, I simply tape it to the window, instead of using the provided plastic sleeve that is supposed to be adhered to the windshield. The best part of this story? It’s good for life! No expiration.
The cost of doctor’s office visits continues to be about 23 euros per consultation, which is so very much less expensive than in the US. The medicine and lab tests are also very inexpensive. The nurse who comes to our apartment to draw blood charges about 7 euros per visit ($8). The injection syringes full of the medicine are 10% of the price in the US. However, none of these charges are covered by our medical insurance, so, although they are so much cheaper than in the US, we do have to pay the charges out of pocket, with no reimbursement on the US side. When we are in the US, our insurance pays for everything, except prescription drug co-pays. The foreign medical insurance we have included in our US policy covers only in-patient hospital visits in a foreign country. So far, that has not been a necessity, thank goodness!
Pharmacies are also a great source of medical assistance. Many years ago, we drove up to the lovely big white sand beach in Canet. As I entered the water, I stepped on something that stung my foot!. I was in terrible pain, but eventually managed to get up to the street and made my way to the “green cross,” which indicates a pharmacy. They knew instantly that I had stepped on a fish called a “vive” which had stung me in the foot. They applied a large bundle of cloth soaked in something, which took away the pain right away. No charge.
The team of pharmacists and clerks at our local pharmacy are so very welcoming. Since I have been purchasing my husband’s injections there for many years, they know us well and are always pleased to see our return to the village. Of course they still automatically ask me for my carte vitale, and I get a look of amazement when I inform them I have to pay for this very expensive medicine myself! One year I managed to get my husband down to the village for a short walk to the main plaza. Walking past the pharmacy, I noticed that the clerks had seen us and were lined up at the window to wave at him and give him encouragement. So sweet! During the pandemic, we tried to think of ways to help the merchants in our village. One thing I did was to call one of the village florists and order bouquets of flowers for all the female clerks in our pharmacy (about ten) for St. Valentine’s Day. They were so surprised and thrilled! When we finally returned to Banyuls, they continued to thank me for the flowers each time I went into the pharmacy. This connection with the local pharmacy also came in very handy when we needed the French health passes that proved we’d been vaccinated against COVID-19. It took about a month, and the connection with a pharmacist in Le Boulou to get these done, but the gals learned how to do it and we had our passes before leaving the US! We traveled with French passes, Spanish passes, US certificates (from the CDC) and certificates from our county health agency. When American friends finally managed to return to their home in the next village that same Fall, I sent them to our pharmacy, as the pharmacies in their village refused to give them French health passes. They were delighted that, within an hour, our pharmacy gals handed them their official “passes sanitaires”!
When we returned to France the following spring, we had gotten our boosters by then, so sent off all our information once again to our pharmacy and they sent us new health passes. But shortly after our arrival, restrictions began to be dropped, so we needed the passes only for entering the hospital for my husband’s appointment with his hematologist. General mask mandates also were dropped that spring, but continued to be required for all medical facilities.
About one month into our visit that spring, a spot of cancer began to grow on my husband’s wrist. It grew so fast and was also painful, that he began to get quite worried about it. I checked with friends about a dermatologist nearby, but they informed me that getting an appointment with a dermatologist in France takes at least 3 months. So I sent a photo and email to our dermatologist in the US, who knew immediately what it was and said he would take care of it when we returned in mid-summer. But it was a worry for my husband, so we sent a photo and email off to our village doctor, who replied that he was very experienced with these cancers and could take care of it the following week. Unfortunately, he then cancelled the appointment at the last minute because of an emergency! So then we had another week of stress and anxiety until we could get scheduled again. The following week, we met my French friend at a nearby parking lot; she helped my husband into the wheelchair, and then she helped me push him around the block to the doctor’s office. We were about half an hour early, as one never knows what will be the parking availability in the center of town. At just about our appointment time, we were called into the office. The doctor explained what the cancer was and that it was not a “bad one.” Then he wheeled my husband into the exam room, put his arm on the exam table, gave him a numbing shot, and sliced off the growth. Blood went everywhere! But he and his student assistant quickly began to stitch up the incision, and then they more stitches….and then more stitches, so that I wondered if they would ever be done! They were “very thorough,” as my husband remarked. Then a general clean-up of all the blood and lots of bandages were applied. It was quite a large growth, shaped like a volcano, and it was sent off to a lab for analysis. We returned to his office where he wrote out orders for special cream and special bandages for me to redress the wound every two days, and an order for the nurse to remove the stitches in 10-12 days.
Then he asked for our Carte Vitale. “No, monsieur, we have to pay you.” Oh the fuss! Oh the trouble we caused! He and his assistant had to find the guide book for charges and then figure out what the charts meant. Finally they gave me a bill for 88 euros 56 cents. (about $95), which I gladly paid. They have no clue that to just walk into a doctor’s office in the US often costs $120, although insurance pays for that. Surgery for only $95 — imagine!
Over the next week, I redressed his stitches every two days, as instructed. Ten days later, the nurse arrived for my husband’s usual blood test, and she decided that his stitches were ready to be removed. Afterwards, she left me the stitch-removal kit she’d used, as it was only useable for one patient—a very cute thing to have in my medical supplies! The next day, his arm was all red around the wound, and he couldn’t decide if he was too hot or too cold. Areas of pus began to appear and the village doctor agreed to come to our apartment to look at the wrist. He decided it was an infection and prescribed an antibiotic and a cream for five days. It continued to be swollen with lots of drainage. Even after we finished the antibiotic, there was pus erupting from an area beside the healed incision. This was quite a mystery to us, and to our nurse as well! It wasn’t until a month after surgery when we had returned to the US, that we learned from our US dermatologist that such an eruption of pus can sometimes occur due to an “aggressively overactive healing process.” Eventually it was healed and that medical issue was resolved.
That was our last season together in our tiny village of Banyuls sur Mer, as my beloved husband lost his battle against MDS and age the following spring. The response of care and kind messages I received, after news of his death reached the other side of the pond, from his hematologist at the hospital, the gals at our pharmacy, his nurse, the village merchants, and our many friends has been overwhelming We spent 40 years making this village our second home, and it has repaid us time and again with its care and kindness.





